Izmir (Smyrna), like many other parts of Turkey, is like an onion, with many layers waiting to be peeled. Yesterday, upon arrival, we learned about the catastrophe at Smyrna due to the population exchange between the Turkish and Greek governments in 1924. It is humbling to experience a place where so many of our ancestors and Christian brothers and sisters lived and experienced so many unnecessary atrocities. We had the afternoon at leisure, and many in the group took advantage of the many coffee houses and museums the city has to offer.
Today our adventures took us back in time to the ancient city of Ephesus, where we followed the lives of the apostles of John, Paul, and the Virgin Mary. We started off our bus ride reading the epistle of the day, Acts 19:1-8, which discusses Paul’s journey to Ephesus. Our first stop took us to the small and humble stone chapel built over where Mary lived with John. We lit candles and filled bottles up with holy water at the spring outside the chapel.
Our next destination took us back even further in time to the ancient ruins of the city of Ephesus. Even with only 30% of the site excavated, the city buildings and walkways seem to continue in every direction. The beautiful and sophisticated Library of Celsus would inspire even the laziest of students to study. Of spiritual significance, we also spent time at the Church of the Virgin Mary, the site of the 3rd Ecumenical Council.
After lunch in a former Greek village in the mountains, we descended to the Basilica of St. John the Theologian. Commissioned by Justinian and Theodora at the site of St. John’s burial, the Basilica is considered the sister church of Hagia Sophia. Unfortunately, after a devastating earthquake, the church remains in ruins today. However, the empty tomb of St. John remains beneath the kouvklion in front of the altar.
Tomorrow will bring our final history lesson about the city of Smyrna, and our last full day of touring.
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